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To thoroughly check the air cylinders, do the following:
- Use the time engine command, capture the text, and save it as a text file in E:\Service.
Someone may have saved a "time engine" capture file previously. If so, compare
the results. Refer to the engine timing specifications on your service cd.
- Although the sensors are probably OK, it is quick and easy to check them. There are 4
reed switches per backbone. Two sense when the cylinders are extended, and two sense when
the cylinders are retracted. Check them to make sure that the screws are not loose and
that the wires are not damaged. Inspect the magnets for loose screws as well. You can use
diagnostic commands to read the sensors to verify that they are working and that the
machine can read them. The reed switch tester (10-3622B) can also be used to verify the
switches. If diagnostic commands wont read the switches, but the reed switch tester
indicates that they are OK, the fault is probably in the wiring or the LUE/Engine
satellite board.
- Check the timeout values and ensure that they are set to default.
- Press the blue button on the air solenoid and activate the actuator a few times. Ensure
that it moves smoothly, and that both cylinders move at the same speed. If one cylinder
moves too slowly, the backbone will bind, particularly on 3244 engines.
Note: The trailing edge clamp cylinders on VLF engines are
intentionally adjusted so that one cylinder moves slightly faster than the other. The time
difference between the two cylinders should be less than one second.
- Inspect the cylinder shaft while the cylinder is extended. It should be shiny and clean.
If you can see black marks on the cylinder shaft, it indicates that the seal is worn out
and the cylinder must be replaced. Double check the cylinder using the procedure described
in Step 8 below.
- Check the air pressure to the cylinder using the air pressure tester (93-0005A). The
roller cylinders and the TEC cylinders have a separate pressure regulator. The trailing
edge clamp cylinders should be 40 psi, and the roller cylinders should be 30 psi. Note
that the roller pressure may be as low as 15 psi to prevent roller marks on delicate plate
emulsions. Older 3244 Platesetters have two separate pressure regulators for the TEC
cylinders, so check the air pressure on both TEC cylinders. The regulators are located on
the hose tray along the lower front of the engine. If there is no hose tray, the engine is
newer-style, and a single regulator will be located on the air bulkhead. If you change the
air pressure, run "time engine" again and adjust as necessary.
- Check for air leaking past the cylinder piston seals. If there is a leak, you should
hear air hissing from the bulkhead exhaust port when the machine is idle. You wont
be able to tell which cylinder is leaking. Most of the time, the leak will stop
momentarily when you push the blue button on the solenoid that is connected to the leaky
cylinder.
Warning: Don't push the button on the TEC lock/unlock solenoid unless the
clamps are already on the drum!
You can further isolate which cylinder is bad by disconnecting the air hose on the low
pressure side of the cylinder. For example, if the cylinder is extended, the black hose
will be on the low pressure side. Check to see if any air is coming out of the cylinder.
Re-connect the hose, extend/retract the cylinder, and check the other side. This is not an
exhaustive test, so the cylinder may still have a leak.
- Use the "putclamp" diagnostic command to put the TECs on the drum. Switch off
the air to the machine. Open up the speed control valves on the cylinder to be tested.
Count the number of turns so that you can return it close to the original setting when you
are done. Disconnect the backbone from the cylinder rod end (the screw and nut are
non-metric) and move the cylinder in and out by hand. It should move fairly easily and it
should feel smooth for its entire travel. A bad cylinder will be difficult to move, and it
may feel sticky over certain parts of its travel. If in doubt, perform the same check on
another cylinder to see how it feels.
- There is a possibility that one or both of the speed controls are plugged. If you
suspect this, carefully remove the speed control with a wrench. They are made of brass and
it is very easy to break them in half, so be careful. Test the cylinder by hand again and
see if there is any difference. It should be much easier to move the piston now that there
is a wide hole where the speed control was. You can test the speed control by blowing
through it, or by connecting it to an air hose and blowing compressed air through it. Use
teflon tape or Loctite 545 sealer on the threads when you put the speed control back on.
- If the actuator error was on the trailing edge clamp, inspect the clamps for damage.
Mis-aligned or damaged TECs will cause actuator errors since they can prevent the TEC
backbone from moving all the way down.
- Verify that the drum positions are correct for the TEC park position, and LEC position.
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